Pencil Coi;ls

[GED]

Hi Ged - We have tuneboy software, a synchromate and two bikes with which to try swapping parts to find the problem. The tuneboy does have a good diagnostic side and should point to any problems without the need to run the engine! Up to you - we're certainly closer to you than Grahams is.

cheers mate for the very generous offer,thing is it would cost me the same to ship the bike to ur location as it would to send it to grahams ,and if u cant fix it ,then im back to where i am now only £200 out of pocket,shame ur not my next door neighbour,and i dont think ur tuneboy would work on my bike i thought u bought a "key" per ecu,but if i could ask a favour ,if i get a tune boy and have trouble operating it ,would it b ok to pm u to get advice

[GED]

Hi Ged,
Sorry you are still having problems. Have you checked all the earth points. I would remove each earthing point, thoroughly clean all contacts, apply Dialectric grease and replace. Over the years I have had a number of electrical problems and each time although not instantly obvious turned out to be insufficient earthing contacts. Modern electronics also seem to require perfect earthing points as they are operating at low amps.
Good luck. Regards, Gary.

cheers for the reply but it cant b the earths nor sidestand switch ,fuses relays,im pretty certain ,,,,,last thurs i rode my bike home ,it was running great ,in fact its the first time i gave it a big handful ,fast n stable i was impressed ,got home put bike in shed,,,,,friday took bike out of shed ,jacked up using abba stand ,changed front sprocket ,lubed chain,lifted tank ,changed air filter ,removed oil cooler brackets changed oil filter and engine oil ,using access from front of bike puting my hand over the radiator i removed coil retaing brack ,unplugged connectors ,carefully removed coils ,replaced plugs re fitted coils ,connected leads to coils ,then retaining brackets,turned on ignition ,pressed starter ,engine turning over but no start ,tried a couple of times ,removed plugs there soaking in petrol ,put old plugs back ,which as same effect,and the rest is history ,as you see i did nothing wrong ,dont know whats happened ,just cant see it being the earths or starter button ,as ive said one minute bike works ,then it dont , banging my head against a brick wall ,wish there was a mz genius in lancashire

[GED]

Hi Ged,
Sorry you are still having problems. Have you checked all the earth points. I would remove each earthing point, thoroughly clean all contacts, apply Dialectric grease and replace. Over the years I have had a number of electrical problems and each time although not instantly obvious turned out to be insufficient earthing contacts. Modern electronics also seem to require perfect earthing points as they are operating at low amps.
Good luck. Regards, Gary.

cheers for the reply but it cant b the earths nor sidestand switch ,fuses relays,im pretty certain ,,,,,last thurs i rode my bike home ,it was running great ,in fact its the first time i gave it a big handful ,fast n stable i was impressed ,got home put bike in shed,,,,,friday took bike out of shed ,jacked up using abba stand ,changed front sprocket ,lubed chain,lifted tank ,changed air filter ,removed oil cooler brackets changed oil filter and engine oil ,using access from front of bike puting my hand over the radiator i removed coil retaing brack ,unplugged connectors ,carefully removed coils ,replaced plugs re fitted coils ,connected leads to coils ,then retaining brackets,turned on ignition ,pressed starter ,engine turning over but no start ,tried a couple of times ,removed plugs there soaking in petrol ,put old plugs back ,which as same effect,and the rest is history ,as you see i did nothing wrong ,dont know whats happened ,just cant see it being the earths or starter button ,as ive said one minute bike works ,then it dont , banging my head against a brick wall ,wish there was a mz genius in lancashire

[tomtom]

This might be total pie in the sky. But i remember when my bike was also playing up and it was the main wiring loom connector to the speedo which was loose and gave the bike some funny starting problems.
Worth a try as it's not an obvious place to look

Hope you get the bike working

[GED]

This might be total pie in the sky. But i remember when my bike was also playing up and it was the main wiring loom connector to the speedo which was loose and gave the bike some funny starting problems.
Worth a try as it's not an obvious place to look

Hope you get the bike working

ill give it a look over the weekend ,been trying to get in touch with tune boy ,no reply to emails sent yesterday ,not even sure if there still trading ,

[boilermaker]

Ged
Tom may have something re the display/speedo console. When I replaced the speedo assembly on my machine, upon plugging it in, the the whole machine lit up and ran a self diagnostic (ignition not switched on) . This leads me to believe that the console itself may contain some computing/controlling power in the shape of a small chip.

[GED]

Ged
Tom may have something re the display/speedo console. When I replaced the speedo assembly on my machine, upon plugging it in, the the whole machine lit up and ran a self diagnostic (ignition not switched on) . This leads me to believe that the console itself may contain some computing/controlling power in the shape of a small chip.

well im getting a new multimeter tomorrow ,i will check plug 2 console ,but does anybody know what voltage is supplied to the coil via the leads ,multimeter across both pins ,ignition on and engine cranking,

[GED]

forgot to mention im trying to find a fault code reader for bikes ,any suggestions,in response to the previous suggestion i emailed that company 5mins ago ,to be informed 5mins later they dont have a bike product,yet im still waiting for tune boy to reply to me,i may be wrong and its only my opinion but maybe there poor reputation concerning customer support and aftercare is well founded,and it looks as though the tuneboy option is a non starter

[tomtom]

Worthwhile unplugging the connector to the speedo rather than just checking its not loose. I used to get the ecu going crazy driving along the road and all the dials doing a self test.
Pulled the connector in and out a few times to make sure there was a good connection, a little bit of acf spray and no problems since.

I've not looked at the coils on my bike but i would think any power to the coils would just be 12v as its only a basic signal to the amplifier, if thats the right word that sits on top of the pencil coil.
Probably talking rubbish,sorry?

[GED]

I've not looked at the coils on my bike but i would think any power to the coils would just be 12v as its only a basic signal to the amplifier, if thats the right word that sits on top of the pencil coil.
Probably talking rubbish,sorry?

top of the pencil coil is primary coil the long bit with brass earthing strip the bit that sits inside ur engine is secondary coil,havnt got a clue what the voltage should be ,im only getting 0.96v with the ignition on,im getting a better multi meter tommorow,which may help to confirm the readings ,

[tomtom]

taken from the workshop manual do you have a copy?

Nominal voltage 12V
Ignition Electronic engine management
Ignition point controlled by the ECU
Spark plug Bosch FR 6 DTC
alternatively NGK BCPR 6 ET
Spark plug air gap preset, do not bend!
Timing sequence 1 - 2
Resistance of the generator winding 0.2 Ω ± 10% Measure between two coils each
Rated power of the alternator 450 Watt
Regulator voltage 14.5 ± 0.5 V
Fuse box relay/coil resistance approx. 100 Ω
Battery
• Type name YTX14-BS
• Capacity 12Ah
Illuminant
• Headlight HB3-12V/60W
• Dipped beam HB3-12V/60W
• Parking light 2x 12V 5W W2.1x9.5d
• Direction indicators 12V 10W R19/10
• Tail light/brake light 12V-21/5W P25-2
• Instrument illumination: 5x 12V 1.2W W2.1x9.5d
Voltage divider 56 Ω ± 5%
300 kΩ
PIN 1/2
PIN 1/3
Fuses
• Regulator
• Engine management (power latch)
• Vehicle network
• Headlight
• Fuel pump and diagnosis
• Instrument
30 A
20 A
15 A
15 A
7.5 A
5 A
FK1/32V
FK1/32V
FK1/32V
FK1/32V
FK1/32V
FK1/32V

[tomtom]

sorry this is the coil data from the workshop manual


8.12 Ignition coils
Removal
1. Switch off the ignition
2. Remove the seats and tilt the fuel tank upward and secure,
remove the air box.
3. Unscrew the 2x screws (1) of the ignition coil bracket (2),
remove the cable clamp (4).
4. Separate the ignition coil connections (5) from the ignition
coil (3).
5. Remove the ignition coils from the cylinder head.
Inspection
Measure the coil resistance.
• Primary coil resistance: 0.6 Ω at 20 °C.
• Secondary coil resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C.
Note:
If the threading pieces are not rethreaded, the screws
may break off before the ignition lock is firmly in place.
Then the work must be performed again.

    
Note:
Mark the ignition coils ac

[tomtom]

pm me your email address and i'll try and send you a copy of the full manaul

Tom

[GED]

cheers tom ive got a copy ,when it says nominal voltage does that mean the voltage being fed to them,
if so then ive got a problem with the voltage feed ,

[tomtom]

The nominal voltage is whatever your data says? but the actual figure is usually higher. e.g nominal 12v would say, read 13 or 14.v in practice
Trouble is i'm not an electrician but i've had enough bikes break down on me over the years