breakwellmz wrote:Hi.
That`s rather rash advice to some who admits to having little experience especially without seeing what damage the hub might have, he will also require high tensile bolts as replacements as well if it proves to be that simple.
Cheers.
Is it? Is it really any more difficult than getting a few bolts in there & ride the thing home? Is the solution dependent on the experience of the owner? If the OP doesn't feel confident himself, maybe someone else could do it. Anyway, if the OP feels offended, my apologies.
You ask advice. Then harvest opinions: use what you like, ignore what you don't. But always stay in charge yourself.
Come home, take the wheel out check the bearings, replace the nuts. Yes use thread lock, maybe in combination with new locking/non-slipping nuts (which I now learn are called 'captive'). High tensile bolts? Yes, as anyone can see (see links to miraculis.de elsewhere on this forum), the book says "DIN 933 M8x35-10.9-A4K hexagonal bolt" so that seems an M8 bolt of 35mm long, of the
10.
9 class (a yield strength of
940 and tensile strength of
1040 MPa, anyway, pretty strong). I don't know what 'A4K' means, but 'A4' means stainless, so 'A4K' may indicate a surface treatment to prevent corrosion? Frankly, any good bolt will do IMO.
Adequate tension in the bolts should lock the sprocket onto the hub, but you might consider drilling the outside of the oval holes round & fitting bushes. Yes check the chain & sprocket
s for wear & replace as a set if required. Check the chain tension when the 3 axles (F sprocket, swingarm axle, wheel axle) are on 1 straight line, that's when the distance is longest & the chain is tightest (with the chain at the tightest position, if there is any).
I think for about $1000 you found yourself a magnificent bike, congratulations! Enjoy it, but yes, it will need work, older bikes always do.