MZ/MuZ Riders

Hi,

been doing some work on the back brake..Today, and fitted new pads, all be it not properly not run in yet, needs a few miles for them to bed in, anyway while i was at it decided to bleed the brakes as i bought a vacuum brake bleeder last year, sucked out all the dirty fluid in the master cylinder. and bled the brakes with the vacuum bleeder, and by manually bleeding on the lever and opening the bleed nipple.

what i also had to do was push the brake cylinder piston all the way back by jamming in some old pads, and re bled the brakes i have a nice solid brake now, but in the past, I have had issues with the rear brakes sticking seized, all the slider pins on caliper are polished up and lubricated, so no issues there, but what i want to ask there still seems a fair amount of travel on the pedal before the brake comes on its not spongy anymore though.

when you adjust the brake pedal do you try and get the threaded pushrod to almost touch the master cylinder ?

because in the past if i adjust it up anymore on to the master cylinder i get the brakes overheating, and seizing//

any tips on how to best adjust the rear brakes please...?

i may jam something in between the pedal and adjuster tonight to see if it will get rid of anymore air in the system, as i do sometimes tie up the front brake lever and that seems to help get a better brake...

it just occured to me i wonder if theres an air bubble above the master cylinder where the brake pressure switch is...?

i have found that all 3 of mine are a problem to get the bubbles out
i use a bottle and a pump to force fluid into system from the bleeder end of things
and suck the extra in the tank out

pouring in the tank and pumping the lever does not work for me

dave

The last time i stripped mine down i took the caliper off and hung it up so it was the highest point in the system, left it like that overnight, and bled it in that position next day.
It works a treat and i`ve resolved several stubborn bleeders the same way.

i persevere with it for a while to see if it improves, there is still a bit of travel in the lever but the brake feels more solid.... thanks for the tips if i get any more probs i try either of those methods, only thing that different with my rear brake is a have a different brake light switch as my original fialed so wondering if theres an air bubble on top of it

i tied up my back brake for a short while and noticed i getting some fluid weeping out of the master cylinder, anyone know what seals they require and where i can get some ? what is the part number for the rear master cylinder, i can see on the baghira fiche at grahams motorcycles this part

9014416000



really need the grimeca part number so i can find a seal kit or what other bike this master cylinder is fitted too..

I sure somewhere i saw a list of parts somewhere on this forum can anyone point me to it ?

thanks