MZ/MuZ Riders

I'm tring to fit new fork seals to my skorpion but am having trouble stripping them down - the bolt at the bottom of the slider just rotates continously, I'm guessing I need a special tool to react the nut inside, can anybody advice on what this tool should be?
cheers
Andy

Yep you need a lump of wood!

I used a length of 1 1/2" x 3/4" and sharpened the end to a rough point ..... then just jam it inside the fork and you should find it grips enough to undo the bottom bolt.

And we are in the age of high tech as well

Great response, I like that sort of technology.

Did you take the spring out already? What I do, and it has never failed, is to remove the fork tube, turn it upside down and with the proper allen SOCKET installed in an electric or pnuematic impact driver, put the driver with the allen socket in the hole in the bottom of the fork leg. Put the top of the fork against a wall corner with something soft on it to cushion it. You now have the fork tube upside down. Putting your body (stomach) against the driver, push on the fork leg to compress it somewhat and hit the reverse on the driver. Utilizing the spring inside as a helper. the bottom bolt has never not come out. Hope this helps.

Gordon

On a similar theme - those stanchion bolts that can be such a bitch to get loose, respond very well to a Hex socket mounted in an electric hammer drill with a clutch.

Set the clutch to 'medium', select reverse, and the hammering effect as the clutch slips mimics the action of an impact driver rather well, without rounding off the bolt heads. Each of mine succumbed after a 10 seconds or so of this (mal)treatment. .

Hello people cheers for the help, not have done it before I didn't really have the confidence to go for it. My drill didn't have enough torque in reverse to loosen the bolt but an impact driver and a 5lb lump hammer + attitude sorted it! not having any manuals I'm guessing that after removing the dust seal and the circlip the oil seal and bush should pull out by brute force? it hasn't come out yet, probably corrsion etc but I'm comming up against the confidence thing again

I feel your pain! My forks were being very obstinate and the top bushings finally released after a little careful torch work on the top of the leg (where the bushing is). Lower leg in a vise in soft jaws or protected by cloth, use the fork tube as a slide hammer and it should pop right out. I had slammed it a dozen times with no result, and was having serious doubts if I was doing it right. After the heating it came out in 2 hits. Good Luck!

Just did mine ('96 Skorpion Sport) this winter.
Air Impact driver worked fine on those bottom slider bolts.
I like the careful heating idea, I had to really slam mine to get the seals/bushings out.
Some words of caution, there's an inside circlip , spring and valve assembly inside the bottom of each
fork tube. These do not show in the parts book.This clip and other bits were loose inside one side,
don't know if it was always that way, or a result of my above mentioned slamming .
Watch carefully when you take the inner damper out, the better to note order and orientation of these parts
if they are loose. I had to make a 3 foot long trick retainer clip installer to get things back together.....the
retainer is installed down thru the top side of the fork tube.
Good luck,
Jim

my 97 traveller only has 5800 miles but the ride is ruff ..
bet it is not broke in yet and needs an oil change
any one know weight type and how many cc
there was a pdf book on the forks in past posts does any one know where it can be down loaded
as above need for 97 traveller need to get it in shape did not buy it to look at
dave

Dave,
As far as I can see, the Traveller has the same Paioli RSU forks as Sport & Tour.
seal 41x53x10.5
Cap. 350 ml/side
SAE 10w or 15w 160mm from top w/o spring

I've seen 20W recommended by track guys, but my experience is that 15w at 150mm is stiffer than stock
and that 10w or ATF would be better for Pburg back road type riding.
Seals available by size at any Parts Unlimited dealer.
If you haven't changed fork oil yet, you will be surprised by the mud that comes out !
Jim

According to the parts book, MZ changed the type of Paioli fork used after 1996. From the parts book:

"OLD FORK VERSION: slider dark grey without any signs on the lower surface of the slider.
NEW FORK SLIDER: SLIDER SILVER COLOURED or dark grey with a cross sign and / or a poit sign on the lower surface of the slider"

Also found this piece of information somewhere:

Fork Oil Changing.



To drain, remove front wheel, locate drain plug in each leg slider, remove and drain oil. To check level of oil, remove both upper fork plugs. Remove both spacer tubes and then the springs. Position the sliders fully up. Measure from the top rim of stanchion to oil level.

Type: Early grey sliders
Oil Level : 220mm
Amount: 340ml
Grade: SAE 30

Type: Later silver sliders
Oil Level: 220ml
Amount: 300ml
Grade: SAE 10


Norman
http://www.mzskorpion.net

What is the trick for getting the allen bolts on the bottom of the forks to come out on my 95 Skorp Sport? I got them loose, and managed to get one to finally spin off using a drill. But the other loosened part way and now just spins! Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

guitarzan wrote:What is the trick for getting the allen bolts on the bottom of the forks to come out on my 95 Skorp Sport? I got them loose, and managed to get one to finally spin off using a drill. But the other loosened part way and now just spins! Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

Read the thread - there are some solutions already posted here. I have a 3/8" drive "butterfly" style air impact driver, it's gentle and never fails. And did you take the springs out first? Bad idea.

Yes, springs out first... Crap. Thanks, I'll see if I can stuff the one tube back together and try again.

Zippy49, thank you for the tip. It worked like a charm. Everything is finally apart, and hopefully this set of seals won't leak for a few years.