MZ/MuZ Riders

I have searched and am not finding what I need.
The TDM ignition box that is mentioned, is from a TDM 850/900? Thats the only ones I can see from Yamaha and being a twin cylinder, how would that work on a single........?
PLEASE educate this old dog!!! 7200 rpm is silly low and hitting the rev limit is no fun...... that low.

Any reason for not considering or desiding against an Ignitech programmable unit?

I'd bet a email to Bill J would be the best choice and If you chose to modify your engine at any time you'd be able to program to match the components installed.

OMC

Agreed. The Ignitech is a nice unit.

For the record, this engine stops making power long before the 7200 stock limiter. Anything above that is just making noise and the stock auto decomp system doesn't like it either. You don't want that thing coming apart.

So.................... no answers for the original question? TDM box?

No answers, sorry.
After the TDM "box" had been discussed on this forum I like others decided that it wasn't the best choice.
Beyond that you might do a search or wait for someone with first hand knowledge to respond.
OMC

fWIW, I have a spare Ignitech box.

Sam

Namikuz wrote:So.................... no answers for the original question? TDM box?

You also asked for some education and trying to bypass the stock rev limiter because you don't like it to kick in 2000 RPM past max torque and 1200 RPM past max HP isn't going to do your bike any favors or make it sound any better. Peak HP is @ 6000 RPM. Peak torque is @ 5250 RPM. Maybe if you tell us more about what you are trying to accomplish, you will waste less time and money.

edfmaniac wrote:

Namikuz wrote:So.................... no answers for the original question? TDM box?

You also asked for some education and trying to bypass the stock rev limiter because you don't like it to kick in 2000 RPM past max torque and 1200 RPM past max HP isn't going to do your bike any favors or make it sound any better. Peak HP is @ 6000 RPM. Peak torque is @ 5250 RPM. Maybe if you tell us more about what you are trying to accomplish, you will waste less time and money.

On my bike in the lower gears, the engine has an extra kick above 6000 RPM just like a 2 stroke, and can rev out too fast to the limiter.

Maybe raising the limit is not a bad idea.

edfmaniac wrote:

Namikuz wrote:So.................... no answers for the original question? TDM box?

You also asked for some education and trying to bypass the stock rev limiter because you don't like it to kick in 2000 RPM past max torque and 1200 RPM past max HP isn't going to do your bike any favors or make it sound any better. Peak HP is @ 6000 RPM. Peak torque is @ 5250 RPM. Maybe if you tell us more about what you are trying to accomplish, you will waste less time and money.

The education I am looking for is in the original question about the TDM box. I am GREATLY aware of the specs and draw backs of the stock engine and the agressive curve of the stock box. I am also very aware of the Ignitec box and the programmability and usefulness of it, along with the Halitec and magnitos as well as several other aftermarket ignitions, thanks for your thoughts.
I am not looking for a discussion on the building of an engine to the percived "correct" way to build my engine at this point.
I am inquiriing about the TDM box, and if the said box is from the twin cylinder 850/900 and how it would function on a single, as I don't seem to be able to find a TDM660 in the world market place..... hence, my curiosity, and yes the 7200 limit is silly low IMHO and with shifting on an agressive run, rowing through the gears will hit the limiter easily in 1st, 2nd and at times, 3rd, especially with the 15/41 gearing. YUP, I know, shift SOONER..... But not always optimal when running up to a corner, up shift and then a quick down shift because I ran out of rpm and studdered into the limiter(happened frequently on the Dragons Tail)....... holding the gear a bit longer will make a smoother corner inlet and a faster, more enjoyable ride (even though I am just running out the engine and making no more power on a stock engine) .
So, to my original question?

There has been loads of stuff on the CDI for the 850 TDM on this forum, you just need to search the archives

Never mind.................. Re-worded my search ALOT and found this.
An exerpt from Bill J.

The TDM 3VD box works fine with stock engines or with mild tuning, but is not recommended with high compression pistons due to the spark advance curve. The higher the compression, the less advance is used. (gerneralization!) That said, I have a couple of them running, mostly in entirely stock bikes, but also running well in one mildly tuned Skorpion: Mikuni, Hotcam #1, Wiseco 100mm 11:1, lightened flywheel and starter freewheel, no counter balancer, Barker 39mm pipes, SZR cluster.
The TDM box cuts out at 8400.
Too high revs is nonsense, however. The SRX had no limiter at all and neither does my racer. Too high depends on the rider. The stock CDI cuts out at 7200, regardless of what fantastic numbers are shown on the tach.......

Sorry for the silly question that I apperantly did not search out properly. I have what I need. Thanks for indulging my currousity.

I hope you take all of Bill's advice on running these engines at higher RPM, and not just pick the parts you want to hear. That balancer drive gear is supposed to be a killer if you do a lot of down shifting into high RPM or pluck the clutch a lot.

Cheers

I've played with my Ignitech box a little and I find my preferences a bit different from what has been discussed here: for street riding I like the ignition to advance as soon as possible, then remain stable over the RPM range I use for riding - I've found this to give crisp, consistent throttle response. I think this is what Yamaha tries to do with their stock curve and it works for me. As far as rev limit - my weird motor (mostly stock intake and exhaust system, ported head, Hotcam 1 and 11:1 Wiseco) peaks well below redline but makes some power past it; its nice to have over rev on occasion and I'm sure I'm not damaging anything occasionally spinning up to 8k.

BTW, it's nice to be able to temporarily lower the redline to a lower RPM to check the accuracy of the tach. Mine seems to be right overall, but can vary plus or minus 10% or more.

I plan on doing some serious dyno time this spring, but I'd guess any gains will be small and will come from a small amount of retard, maybe a couple of degrees.

Sam

edfmaniac wrote:I hope you take all of Bill's advice on running these engines at higher RPM, and not just pick the parts you want to hear. That balancer drive gear is supposed to be a killer if you do a lot of down shifting into high RPM or pluck the clutch a lot.

Cheers

The gear was the first thing I did when I got it home from North Carolina.
I do apreciate the responces recieved when they are on topic.
I have an impressive Resume starting in 1979, with Honda in San Diego Ca. and have been involved with all levels of motorsports and vehicle development with G.M.N.O.A in Milford Mi.., Roush Technologies in Allen Park Mi., Black Forest Porsche/BMW Racing and J.B.A. Racing in San Diego California. I have spent abit of time in Ypslanti Mi. in the Emissions lab for Honda North America and have been involved with motorcycle racing, on and off road, for most of my life. I have been involved with some very competive builds of Suzuki GS1100s, Yamaha R6s, Raptors in 250 and 660 clases, I DO NOT know everything, but I kinda have a clue.......
It is obvious to me that you and several others have alot of information to offer about these particular bikes and that is why these boards are so important and valuble. They are a bit diferent from most, that is for sure.
Thank you for your time to post to questions.

samandkimberly wrote:I've played with my Ignitech box a little and I find my preferences a bit different from what has been discussed here: for street riding I like the ignition to advance as soon as possible, then remain stable over the RPM range I use for riding - I've found this to give crisp, consistent throttle response. I think this is what Yamaha tries to do with their stock curve and it works for me. As far as rev limit - my weird motor (mostly stock intake and exhaust system, ported head, Hotcam 1 and 11:1 Wiseco) peaks well below redline but makes some power past it; its nice to have over rev on occasion and I'm sure I'm not damaging anything occasionally spinning up to 8k.

BTW, it's nice to be able to temporarily lower the redline to a lower RPM to check the accuracy of the tach. Mine seems to be right overall, but can vary plus or minus 10% or more.

I plan on doing some serious dyno time this spring, but I'd guess any gains will be small and will come from a small amount of retard, maybe a couple of degrees.

Sam

I'm still on the fence on building this engine. If I do, I'll bend up a set of larger stainless pipes and up the compression to possibly an 10.75:1 piston and give Mega Cycles a call for a cam, do a nice port match for the intake and exhaust, 5 angle valve job and some mild pocket work if I see a need, Nothing elaborate, just for running around with me and my wife and some fun in the Utah mountains.
I really enjoy the Traveler ALOT!!!! It could use a bit more snap that is missing from low compression and me being at 5k in elevation, (elevation is worth 1/2 to 1 point of compression depending on ambient conditions right there!!!!)
And if I feel the need to get REALLY stupid, I have my well breathed on Suzuki 1100. The Suz is an animal and is prety hefty so it's not alot of fun in the tight mountain roads here, hence the MZ!!