MZ/MuZ Riders

Just bought an 02 Baghira, it has 17" wheels so I get its the street version rather than the enduro model. Loads of questions but can I start with two;

1. Where can I get a spares list and a manual for the bike. i have an owners manual but its quite basic.

2. Is it possible to lower the rear end a tad without major work. Mine has a seat height of 37" at present which seems high even for this type of bike. Dropping an inch or so would make quite a difference. The rear shock seems to be threaded at the top end and has two lock nuts which need a C spanner. Can it be lowered using these or are they just to set the spring pre-load?

Thanks

Peter

Hi, if you use a C spanner to lessen the spring preload it will lower the back of the bike, just don't slacken it too far and ruin the handling.

Longer dog bones and dropping the front forks through the triple clamps/yokes as well.
The handbook that comes with the bike is pretty useful if you can find one.
Just found this-

http://dk-wp-uploads.s3.amazonaws.com/s ... yamaha.pdf

Brilliant thanks, You have also answered what was going to be my next question about pulling the fork legs through the yokes (Triple trees?). Engine manual will be very helpful.

First have to buy a paddock stand so I can get the bike in a suitable position to tinker.

Peter

i found a lifting platform like this far more useful-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCLE-MO ... Swq7JUEcuG

Regarding adjusting the pre-load on a Whitepower shock. I have measured the exposed length of thread on mine and its nearly 7cm. Is there any guidance on what was the original factory setting for this. The owners manual says its setup for 75kg but not how this translates into the position of the adjuster locknuts. Whether mine is still factory set is of course unknown. Even a 1cm reduction here would drop the whole bike by quite a lot if I remember my schoolboy geometry and i would not have thought this would have a huge effect on the pre-load?

Pulling the legs through the yokes to drop the front does not look so easy unless new handlebar risers are fitted. On my bike the plastic damper adjuster knobs on he top of the legs are only about 1cm clear of the bars as standard.

Regards

PeterF

hi , welcome , you have 11 new messages in your inbox,,11 files for you too,,happy days

Still working through the files Den kindly sent me. However, I did try adjusting the damper setting by shifting the lock nuts up the threaded part of the body a short way without any visible effect. Then the penny dropped, it is only going to effect the ride height when someone is actually sitting on the bike. Without load, the spring extend the shock body to its full extent regardless. Should have realised that much earlier - senior moment.

Anyway though the bike probably sits a bit lower when I am riding it, it still rises to full height as soon as you start to dismount making this a very undignified process. I guess there are only two options. Find/make a new dog bone to lower it properly ( and presumably drop the forks) or reluctantly admit I bought the wrong bike for me. Pity cos its ride otherwise

PeterF

work it out you will love it
and remember RULE 1 do not loan it out!
RULE 2 read rule 1 till its burnt into your brain
Reason i have seen how people ride.....not with my bike they don't know way
DAVE

Ok lets stick with it. The spares book tells me that the standard dog bones are 118mm between centres. Is there any formula applicable to the MZs which tells me how much its lowered for each mm of extra length in the dog bone. For a Suzuki bandit it seems to be around 5:1 i.e an extra 10mm would lower the bike 50mm but of course the Suzuki geometry may be totally different.

Also what is the diameter of the bolts? Spares book silent on this point.

Given that information I can start a search or possibly persuade a friend to make me a set.

Thanks guys.

Peter

Some i made earlier.
5mm x 25mm stainless steel (OTT!), holes are 12mm.

You could try a pair of these-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Platform-Blac ... 1854492052

yep , easiest solution

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Lowering ... 1856655031

I'll pass on the Doc Martin's thanks. I'm old enough to remember when my daughter was into things like that.

Making my own has to be an option. The ones you illustrated have centres at about 125, 140 and 155mm. Having a choice seems very sensible, what effect in terms of lowering did you get with each of these settings? According to Graham's in Taunton, who have been very obliging, a 10mm extension gives about 40mm of lowering so I was aiming for a hole centre of around 130mm which should give me around 45mm. Best i have found on Ebay so far is 145mm which is likely to be too much. Don't suppose you made a spare set?

The ones Den identifiled on German eBay only give about 30mm.

Anyway, now I know what I am looking for I am sure something will turn up soon.

Thanks guys

It was years ago i made these.The seat was re-shaped to give it a flatter profile at the same time, which actually raised my seat height.(I didn`t like the dip behind the fuel tank)
Could you get a local engineering firm to make you ones with the hole centres you want? Using something like 1"x1/8" (or 3/16") steel strip would make it a very cheap job.They don`t need to be a fancy shape.

so make some fully adjustable with rose joints,like used in track rod ends