movement in kick start shaft?

[flatyre]

Hi all sometimes when I use the kickstart it doesn't engage, and on other occasions it seems to jam. I removed the casing and the shaft can move in and out about 5mm. Its not much but enough for the toothed mechanism to rub against the primary drive chain. Is the shaft meant to be locked in place? many thanks.







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[Agronski]

I assume you're talking about your TS150 - if so, the kickstarter layshaft doesn't technically lock to anything.

My TS also had a similar kickstarter problem, and it wasn't the shaft, it was the quadrant and the pinion on the back of the clutch that were the issue. I replaced the quadrant and now it always engages just fine, and doesn't jam.

Check to see if the quadrant has all its teeth, and try looking down from the top if the pinion on the back of the clutch basket isn't worn out. If both sets of teeth are good, then you could try a thicker thrust washer over the shaft if the whole thing is moving laterally too much. If you've ground off some teeth, both pieces are only about £10 and easy to fit...but remember getting the TS clutch off is a serious pain in the backside...
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[flatyre]

thanks Agronski, I take it the ts has a wet clutch? and do I need to remove the clutch to get at the crank shaft oil seal? sorry for the questions.

[Agronski]

The TS has a multi-plate wet clutch, tensioned with 6 springs, each in their own spring cup and locked with individual pins (5mm long, 1mm across). Others here will confirm my feeling that taking it apart to get at the locknut is the single most unpleasant job for repair work on a TS. You'll need a special pusher tool, and a sheet or a friend to help catch the pins when the springs try to ping off over your shoulder at high speed. Lean the bike against a sturdy wall, too, because those springs are HEAVY.

The crank oil seals are under the clutch bell on the left side and under the commutator on the right. Removing the commutator is easy, though - just lock the piston, undo the breaker cam and screw in a 100mm long M10 bolt until the whole thing just pops off. Watch out for the woodruff key, but likely it will have seized into the shaft long ago.

For pictures/details/anything else, you could check http://www.miraculis.de/aw/mz/text/ts1215r/ts1215r.html.
Use google translate if you don't read German. It's the best repair manual for the TS - the Haynes "Big Book of Lies" manual is loosely based on it, but the original is far, far superior. I've got an English PDF version somewhere, but this board won't let me upload it.

Good luck with it - once you get her running, TS can be quite fun.
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[flatyre]

thanks again buddy, that will come in very handy!