MZ/MuZ Riders

For A number of years my 1000sf has been a poor starter and I change the battery and it works again for a while. I switched to 240CCA types as they seem to work better. However after the last time it proved to be a problem I switched to LiFePO lithium and that worked really well for 5 months but then it started to fail to start again but when I tested the battery it was reading 1v so I had it replaced under warranty, unfortunately the replacement couldn't start it so I tried the battery out of my BMW which did start it (But only just and after a couple of attempts). Today I stripped out all the wiring in the started circuit and cleaned all the connectors, I found one of the connections to the solenoid were corroded so I thought I has it sussed. Put it all back together with another brand new 280CCA LiFePO and pressed the tit, nothing, bike would not start. Looks like it may be my starter but I had ruled that out as the bike always started on a new battery or with a jump start. Has anyone else experienced this problem with their MZ's? Has anyone stripped down their starter motor?

I think it's down to the starter motor, its a Mitzuba SM-13. Does anyone know what other bikes use this starter? There are plenty of different variations on this starter but the casings are all different, obviously I need the correct match.

Well after a lot of testing and trying different things I have eliminated the battery, the starter and solenoid. I had an alarm fitted but I have removed that and it makes no difference, however if I remove the plug from the starter solenoid and connect that up to a separate battery the bike starts perfectly. So that means I have a short somewhere within the wiring associated with the starter button, anyone got any ideas?

Poor earth?
If it`s a short wouldn`t that have blown the fuse?

I've checked and cleaned all the earths. The reason I think there is a short of some description is that when I bypass the starter switch it fires up with no problem, if I use the starter button the engine labours as if the battery is dead, something is pulling current but not enough to blow fuses.

i call it electrical problem # one mount a 12 volt battery that powers the the bike system
at only start up
and use the main battery to only crank the bike
vw karmann ghia horn relay was used to power a on vw cars
so the coils got go full voltage when cranking in cold wx
the bmw r26 r27 were hard starters till they had 12 volt at the coils for about 15 seconds
dave

I have done something similar by rewiring the starter switch to only activate the starter solenoid without using any of the bikes systems and it does start, but I want to keep the bike standard so want to find the fault and fix it, not bypass it.

i under stand but but my vw bug with 2 coils confused many but started at F 27 below 0 F